CARTIER, 1980s–1990s - Lot 204

CARTIER, 1980s–1990s “Dauphin” pendant in 750‰ yellow gold and Silverium (800‰ silver), the hanging ring shaped like a twisted hoop through which the animal appears to be leaping, its eye accented by a faceted oval emerald set in a closed setting. Signed “Cartier,” marked “© CARTIER 1989,” and numbered “R00249.” Made in France, with the diamond-shaped hallmark of the Andrée VACHEY workshop. Dimensions: 4.6 x 4.1 cm. Gross weight: 34.9 g. (Slight scratches from wear and oxidation). In the 1980s and 1990s, CARTIER distinguished itself by creating numerous collections—the most iconic of which are the “Panthers”—combining yellow gold with a very specific material: Silverium. This material was developed by goldsmith and sculptor Lucien VACHEY—who filed a patent for it in the 1980s, as well as several other patents for improvements in the years that followed—and consists of a solid-state blackened silver alloy. As a jewelry workshop, Vachey also created numerous pieces for CARTIER, such as those presented here. This material is particularly remarkable because its color is infused throughout the entire piece, as opposed to surface-coloring techniques, thus ensuring the lasting color of the finished jewelry. Through these pieces combining gold and Silverium, we are transported back to the history of jewelry workshops—which played a pivotal role in developing new techniques and expertise, served as indispensable suppliers to the great Parisian jewelry houses, and contributed significantly to their international renown.