CARTIER, "Panthère" Collection, 1990s - Lot 232

CARTIER, "Panthère" Collection, 1990s Yellow gold 750‰ and silverium (silver 800‰) open link bracelet, the ends adorned with two confronting panthers. Opening by twisting. Signed "Cartier" and numbered "X1308". French work, partially legible diamond hallmark of Atelier GAY Frères. Wrist size: 17cm. Width: 1.2cm. P. Gross weight: 51g. (Slight scratches, bumps and deformations). In the 1980's and 1990's, CARTIER distinguished itself by creating numerous collections - the most emblematic of which are the "Panthères" - combining yellow gold and a very specific material: silverium. This material was developed by goldsmith and sculptor Lucien VACHEY - who filed a patent for it in the 1980s, as well as several other improvements in the years that followed - and corresponds to a silver alloy blackened in the mass. As a jewelry workshop, Vachey also produced numerous pieces for the Maison CARTIER, such as those presented here. This material is particularly remarkable because its color is tinted in the mass, as opposed to surface-tinting techniques, thus ensuring that the color of the jewel will last. Through these pieces combining gold and silverium, we plunge back into the history of jewelry workshops, particularly active in the development of new techniques and know-how, and key suppliers to the great Parisian jewellery houses, having largely contributed to their international renown.