CARTIER, "Panthère" Collection, 1990s - Lot 229

CARTIER, "Panthère" Collection, 1990s Opening semi-rigid rush bracelet in yellow gold 750‰ and silverium (silver 800‰) composed of alternating balls and ferrules. Central motif stylizing a hook forming a clasp. Signed "Cartier" and numbered "282300". French work, diamond hallmark of Atelier Lucien VACHEY. Wrist circumference: 16cm. Mesh width: 0.9cm. P. Gross weight: 60.7g. (Slight wear scratches and oxidation). In the 1980's and 1990's, CARTIER distinguished itself by creating numerous collections - the most emblematic of which are the "Panthères" - combining yellow gold and a very specific material: silverium. This material was developed by goldsmith and sculptor Lucien VACHEY - who filed a patent for it in the 1980s, as well as several other improvements in the years that followed - and corresponds to a silver alloy blackened in the mass. As a jewelry workshop, Vachey also produced numerous pieces for the Maison CARTIER, such as those presented here. This material is particularly remarkable because its color is tinted in the mass, as opposed to surface-tinting techniques, thus ensuring that the color of the jewel will last. Through these pieces combining gold and silverium, we plunge back into the history of jewelry workshops, particularly active in the development of new techniques and know-how, and key suppliers to the great Parisian jewellery houses, having largely contributed to their international renown.