CARTIER, Years 1980-1990 - Lot 227

CARTIER, Years 1980-1990 Yellow gold 750‰ and silverium (silver 800‰) "Dauphin" pendant, the suspension ring in the form of a twisted hoop through which the animal seems to jump, its eye enhanced by a faceted oval emerald mounted in a closed setting. Signed "Cartier", annotated "© CARTIER 1989" and numbered "R00249". French work, diamond hallmark of the Atelier Andrée VACHEY. Dimensions: 4.6x4.1cm. P. Gross weight : 34.9 g. (Slight wear scratches and oxidation). In the 1980's and 1990's, CARTIER distinguished itself by creating numerous collections - the most emblematic of which are the "Panthères" - combining yellow gold and a very specific material: silverium. This material was developed by goldsmith and sculptor Lucien VACHEY - who filed a patent for it in the 1980s, as well as several other improvements in the years that followed - and corresponds to a silver alloy blackened in the mass. As a jewelry workshop, Vachey also produced numerous pieces for the Maison CARTIER, such as those presented here. This material is particularly remarkable because its color is tinted in the mass, as opposed to surface-tinting techniques, thus ensuring that the color of the jewel will last. Through these pieces combining gold and silverium, we plunge back into the history of jewelry workshops, particularly active in the development of new techniques and know-how, and key suppliers to the great Parisian jewellery houses, having largely contributed to their international renown.