Attributed to the Maison BOUCHERON, 1930s - Lot 58

Attributed to the Maison BOUCHERON, 1930s "Crémaillère" bracelet in yellow gold 750‰ composed of three rows of geometric oblong links with articulated cut sides, the ends of which are set with calibrated sapphires. Toggle clasp concealed in a link. Marked "DEPOSE". French work, diamond-shaped hallmark of Atelier Charles ARFVIDSON. Length: 18cm. Mesh width: 1.1cm. P. Gross weight: 47.4g. (Scratches and wear, chips). Initially called "Bâtonnets trois rangs", this bracelet model was later renamed "Crémaillère" or "Tank". It was with this type of creation that Boucheron truly entered the modernist movement in the 1930s, setting itself apart from its competitors. With its simple, robust lines, borrowing from the vocabulary of industrial architecture, the bracelet features a purely geometric decoration of articulated rods, with sapphires set at the ends. These evoke minerality, geological formations and gear teeth. This construction gives the piece an evolving character: viewed in one direction, the bracelet reveals only the gold, while the sapphires are revealed when it is turned and set in motion. Despite its massive, structured appearance, the mesh of this Crémaillère bracelet is characterized by great suppleness, giving it comfort and fluidity. It's also worth noting that the use of yellow gold, which had fallen into disuse in previous decades in favor of platinum, marks an early return here, heralding its rehabilitation in the jewelry production of the 1940s. Boucheron thus demonstrates a remarkable modernity, which is worth highlighting. Bibliography: - MOUILLEFARINE, Laurence and POSSEME, Evelyne (Dir.), Bijoux Art Déco et Avant-garde, Editions Norma / Les Arts décoratifs, Paris, 2009. - GABARDI, Mélissa, Les bijoux de l'Art Déco aux années 40, Les éditions de l'Amateur, Paris, 1986.