CARTIER Paris, probably executed by Henri LAVABRE, Early 20t - Lot 110

CARTIER Paris, probably executed by Henri LAVABRE, Early 20th century Diamond brooch in 950‰ platinum with repeated openwork scale motif set with old-cut and rose-cut diamonds, the poly-lobed surround highlighted with old-cut diamonds, all in millegrain setting. 950‰ platinum safety toggle pin. Signed "Cartier Paris" and numbered "3639" on the pin. Dimensions: 3.8x3.8cm. P. Gross weight: 12.5g. (Minor oxidation). Parallel to the scrolls of the "guirlande" style, a desire for purity in jewelry creations was emerging at Cartier, and Japan was one of the many sources of inspiration sought by the House's designers. In the early days of Art Deco, our brooch is emblematic of the Japanese influences in Cartier creations at the beginning of the 20th century. Natural forms were stylized and geometrized. A similar model was made in 1907 by Atelier Henri Lavabre for Cartier Paris stock and is preserved in the Maison Cartier collections (CL99A07). Bibliography: Several reference works on the Maison Cartier reproduce and mention this brooch model, such as - RUDOE Judy, Cartier 1900-1939, Paris, Somogy, 1997, pp. 49, 70 and 92. - and Collectif, Cartier, le style et l'histoire, Réunion des musées nationaux, 2013.