CHAUMET, Circa 1910 - Lot 32

CHAUMET, Circa 1910 "Devant de corsage" pendant brooch in 950‰ platinum exempted with scrolls, festoons and foliate foliage scrolls entirely set with old-cut, rose-cut and crown-cut diamonds, holding three pear-shaped old-cut diamonds in a pampille set with oval and cushion old-cut diamonds, all in beaded closed setting. Weight of the pear-cut diamonds: approx. 1.20, 1.80 and 1.30 carats. Later suspension rings. Dimensions: 6.3x4.8cm. P. Gross - without system: 15.3 g. (A small rose-cut diamond replaced by a brilliant-cut diamond, a few chips). Presented in its original beige morocco case signed "J. CHAUMET S[uccesseu]r de Morel & Cie". Accompanied by a screwdriver and two interchangeable non-original metal fastening systems for wearing as a necklace or brooch, pin in yellow gold 750‰. System weight: 3.2 g. Attached a fine 750‰ white gold chain with alternating links, spring clasp. French work from the early 20th century. Length: 49cm. Mesh width: 1.3mm. Chain weight: 2.6g. Provenance: Private collection, passed down to the present owner. Bibliography: SCARISBRICK, Diana, Chaumet, Joaillier depuis 1780, p. 205: for a "Ornement de cou à rinceaux et festons de diamants (vers 1900)" similar to the model of our brooch. During the Belle Epoque, the bodice front played a key role in jewelry creations, ranking directly behind the tiara in the jewelry hierarchy. Jewelry pieces were also distinguished by the new use of platinum. Thanks to its intrinsic characteristics, platinum allows for extremely fine settings, with the metal disappearing in favor of the stones. Our corsage front is an archetype of Chaumet's virtuosity in creating these delicate settings. The House of Chaumet, unrivalled at the time, was distinguished by a style all its own, with a mastery that was described as follows by critic Roger Marx in his review of the 1900 Exposition Universelle: "Take of all the jewelry the most vast, the most sumptuous, the most enchanting, the corsage front exhibited by M. Chaumet. Chaumet, you'll see that its splendor comes less from the number and size of the diamonds than from the composition that regulates their use and makes the water of gems shimmer like the ripples of a waterfall, like rockets of light".